Download speed is decided by the slowest link in a chain, and it is usually not the one people change first.
A VPN makes downloads slower, not faster — it adds a detour. Use one to get around a block, never for speed. “Speed booster” apps cannot exceed your plan; nothing installed on a phone can. And restarting the router helps only if it had actually locked up.
Speed is quoted in megabits (Mbps) but files are measured in megabytes (MB), and there are eight bits to a byte — so a 16 Mbps line delivers at best about 2 MB per second, not 16. Use this as a sanity check: if you are getting close to the right-hand column at off-peak hours, your connection is not the problem and no setting will make it faster.
If your real speed is far below the figure for your plan, the bottleneck is almost always congestion (the hour), Wi-Fi distance, or a nearly-full device — in that order — not the site.
Most modern releases are encoded in HEVC (also called x265). Compared with the older AVC/x264, HEVC stores the same picture in roughly half the size, so an HEVC 720p file can look as good as a much larger old-format one while downloading in half the time and using half your data. On a phone screen the difference between 720p and 1080p is genuinely hard to see, so choosing 720p HEVC is usually the fastest route to actually watching, and the kindest to a capped data plan. Pick the resolution deliberately on the download page rather than defaulting to the largest one available.
That is the connection dropping, not the file. A resuming download manager is the practical answer — it picks up where it stopped instead of throwing away what you already paid for in data. If it always fails at the same point, start it again on a different network. A download that repeatedly dies at 90% on a nearly-full phone is a storage failure, not a network one; clear a few gigabytes first and it will complete.